Budapest and Austria

Budapest and Austria

Our previous visit to Budapest was during Christmas Markets in December 2018 and a light snow fell on a couple occasions. Now, in July 2022, it was high summer and the heat wave we endured the second week of our cruise prevailed. Our two days with Brit David included a tour of the beautifully restored Hungarian State Opera House, complete with an 8-minute “Opera Buffa” or comic operetta (sample below). Night lighting on the Opera House was a splendid vision from our Callas House hotel room across the street.

Budapest Opera House
Budapest Opera House
Opera House at night from our room

Thanks to David’s intrepid nature he surprised us by leading us up in the hills of Buda to one of Hungary’s most unique attractions, the Hűvösvölgy Children’s Railway. Like any other railway, it has ticket offices, diesel locomotives, signals, switches and a timetable. Unlike other railways, this 11 km scenic train journey is run almost entirely by children during school holidays and breaks. The train, the opera house, catching up with our old friend, and dinner at the Strudel House our last night were the highlights of our summer visit to Budapest.

High finance – buying tickets with the supervisor looking on

Following Budapest we had a week to kill before going to Malta. The thought of traveling in the Hungarian countryside with little English spoken and the currency being the Florint, gave pause to this idea. We simply wanted to chill for a few days in one isolated spot. Austria is known for its thermal baths but since the spa scene has never been our schtick, we trepidatiously booked 3 nights half-board (breakfast and dinner included) at Rogner Bad Blumau, located in the bucolic, verdant hills of SE Austria, an hour from Graz. We could catch a train to Vienna and then connect to the small town of Bad Blumau. Fingers crossed that trains and connections would go smoothly (not quite, but only delayed 2 hours). A resort driver met us on arrival and from there our delight would culminate.

The resort can only be described as a fantastic assault on the imagination in the eccentric manner of Barcelona architect Antoni Gaudi.  In fact, this is Gaudi meets Picasso, meets Disney. Rogner is artwork in nature…multi-coloured domes, curvy facades, garden rooftops, a countless variety of unmatching windows, and undulating hallways spread over peaceful countryside. With a dizzying labyrinth of buildings and pools, losing one’s way isn’t difficult, but it sure is whimsical fun. Being summertime, the air temperature was nearly as warm as the water temperatures but we never tired of being in the health-promoting waters, day or night.

Note: Some photos are included thanks to the internet. I’m just not that good.

Internet sourced
Internet sourced
Internet sourced
Changing room
The evening “volcano” show is something we missed (call it “lost in translation”)-picture of a picture.
Internet sourced
Temperature report for the different pools.
There are three dinner dining options and since we were staying 3 nights we tried all of them. A visit to Restaurant GenussReich costs extra but you get a stipend if you wish to dine here.
GenussReich is touted for it’s steaks so we had a mixed grill. It was all delicious.
At the cafe, we found the seafood risotto, surprisingly tasty.
I’d never seen a butter dispenser before this.
Options galore for table water.
The pretty residential enclave of Bad Blumau may be small but homes are large and well-spaced. We saw only one car driving on the roads as we explored the town.
This osprey nest included several juveniles.
In the town centre a display of benches in various themes made by local craftspersons was clever.
I took a hike in the hills and didn’t see another soul.
Apples and pears are the orchards in this region.

Here is a video sampling of Bad Blumau

On to Graz . . . .

Another train ride takes us to Graz, 2nd largest city in Austria, which happens to be the birthplace of Arnold Schwarzenegger. A 3-night stay to recover from our thermal experience.
The Schlossberg inclined railway is the easy way to access the park and fort at the high-point of the city. Of course we opted to sweat our way to the top.
Kunsthauss Graz is a contemporary art museum that has the look of an octopus.

In the square outside our hotel we heard the sounds of brass our first evening. The French group, Fanfare Jo Bithume, is warming up for their performance at Graz University that night. They invite us to come for the free concert and we walk there for an hour of spirited jazz/philharmonic music. It’s an unanticipated fun way to begin our visit to Graz.

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